Make a beautiful Ada crochet top featuring decorative lantern motifs joined into a vintage-inspired sleeveless top. This pattern guides you through motif construction, several motif variations, joining rows, and finishing ribbing and collar so you can create a custom-fit garment you will proudly wear. It uses clear step-by-step photos and notes so you can follow along and adjust length and fit for sizes XS to 5X.
Progress Tracker
0% Complete
— Information :
Info :
yarn needed (see also section 2. determining the size)
Info :
yarn type: I used Katia Capri which is yarn weight 2 (Fine/4ply), but it is also possible to use weight 3 yarn (8ply/DK/Light Worsted), just make sure your gauge is right.
Info :
yarn amount: I used 3 different colours, here I give the approximate amount of balls that you'll need for each size (1 ball = 50 g/125 m/137 yds). If you're making the longest version of the top, you might need an extra ball of each colour.
Info :
size 1A*/1A: 3 balls of each colour. size 1B/1C: 4 balls of each colour. size 1C: 5 balls of each colour. size 2A: 6 balls of each colour. size 2B: 7 balls of each colour.
Info :
other materials needed: crochet hooks (I used 3.5 mm, 4 mm, and 5 mm, but this depends on your gauge). tapestry needle to seam in the ends. scissors. tape measure. 1 small button (with a diameter of approx. 1 cm/0.4 inch).
Info :
stitches, abbreviations and symbols used: blo (back look only). ch (chain). ch sp (chain space). hdc (half double crochet). dc (double crochet). sc (single crochet). slst (slip stitch). st (stitch). tc (triple crochet). yo (yarn over). * and ** (repeat from/until here).
— Determining the size :
Info :
To know which size is best for you, determine your chest size (by measuring the fullest part of your chest) and have a look at the size chart to determine your size. If you're in between sizes, choose if you want to have a tighter fitting top (then size down) or a more relaxed fitting top (then size up).
Infos :
chest measurement 65 - 75 cm / 25,6 - 29,5 in = size in this pattern 1A* = common size XS = crochet hook 3,5 mm. 75 - 95 cm / 29,5 - 37,4 in = 1A = S/M = 4 mm.
Info :
95 - 115 cm / 37,4 - 45,3 in = 1B = L/XL = 4 mm. 115 - 130 cm / 45,3 - 51,2 in = 1C = 2X = 4 mm. 130 - 150 cm / 51,2 - 59,1 in = 2A = 3X/4X = 4 mm. 150 - 170 cm / 59,1 - 66,9 in = 2B = 5X = 4 mm.
Info :
* If your chest measurement is between 65-75 cm (25,6-29,5 in), you follow the instructions for size 1A, but you size down on your crochet hook.
Info :
Next, choose how long you want the top to be. You can choose between 3 different lengths: length S (short), length M (medium) and length L (long). The chart shows the actual length of the top in each size, excluding the ribbing on the waistline. Keep this in mind when choosing the length.
Info :
For example: I made the top in size 1A, length S. My waistline ribbing is 5 cm long. So in total, my top is 40 cm from shoulder to waist (35 + 5 = 40).
— Choosing the colours :
Info :
You'll need 3 different colours; the pattern refers to these as colour A, B, and C. In the photos used in this pattern, colour A = white, colour B = yellow, colour C = green.
— Making the lanterns :
Info :
some important notes on the lanterns: read the pattern horizontally (so by row, not by column). you want your Ada top to have a nice stretch, so don't make your stitches too tight. to be sure your gauge is right, start with the crochet hook that corresponds with your size in the size chart (3,5 mm for size 1A*, 4 mm for the other sizes) and measure the first lantern you finish. Measure the length from peak to peak and the width from side to side.
Info :
size 1A*: the lanterns should be 13 x 8 cm / 5.1 x 3.1 in. size 1A/2A: the lanterns should be 14 x 9 cm / 5.5 x 3.5 in. size 1B/2B: you add 1 extra row, so the lanterns should be 15 x 10 cm / 5.9 x 3.9 in. size 1C: you add 2 extra rows, so the lanterns should be 16 x 11 cm / 6.3 x 4.3 in.
Info :
If your lantern is too small, start over using a bigger hook. If it is too large, start over with a smaller hook. I highly recommend to weave in the ends after you finish each lantern (instead of doing them all at the end) because weaving in 1,000 loose ends when you finish the top is not fun.
— Motif: normal lantern :
Round 0 :
row 0: start with the 1st colour, ch4. join with a slst in the 1st chain to make a loop. (I don't recommend using a magic ring in this pattern)
Round 1 :
row 1: ch3, 2dc in the loop. *ch2, 3dc in the loop* repeat * 4 more times. ch2, join with a slst to the top ch of the ch3, fasten off.
Round 2 :
row 2: attach 2nd colour in a ch sp, ch3. 2dc in the same ch sp, ch2, 3dc in the same ch sp. *in the next ch sp: 3dc, ch2, 3dc* repeat * 4 more times. join with a slst to the top ch of the ch3, fasten off.
Round 3 :
row 3: attach 3rd colour in the space between 2 ch sp (see photo), ch3, 2dc in the same space. in the next ch sp we make one of the 'peaks' of the granny lantern: start with 3dc, ch6. dc in the 4th ch from the hook, dc in the next 2ch, 3dc in the same chain space. in the next 5 spaces: 3dc, 6dc, 3dc, 6dc, 3dc. in the next ch sp, make the other peak. join with a slst in the top ch of the ch3, do NOT fasten off.
Round 4 :
row 4: ch1, sc in each st all around, also sc in the stitches on the right side of the peaks (both loops), in the top of the peaks you make 3sc in the ch sp. at the end, skip the last st which looks very tiny and join with a ss in the ch1.
Round Info :
size 1A*/1A/2A: fasten off, then skip to section 4.2.
Round Info :
size 1B/2B: add 1 extra row of sc, increasing at the top of the peaks (see next photo). to increase: in the middle st of the peaks, make 3sc. when you're done, join with a slst and fasten off.
Round Info :
size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc, increasing at the top of the peaks (see next photo). when you're done, join with a slst and fasten off.
— Motif variation: longer lantern :
Round Info :
Check chart for how many of these you need and in what colour order.
Round 0-2 :
row 0-2: like normal.
Round 3 :
row 3: finish row 3 like normal until you reach the ch sp for the 2nd peak. 3dc, ch9 (instead of ch6) to create the longer peak. dc in the 4th ch from the hook, dc in the remaining 5ch, 3dc in the same ch sp. finish the rest of row 3 like normal.
Round 4-6 :
row 4-6: like normal (make the same amount of rows as you did for the normal lanterns).
— Motif variation: shorter lantern :
Round Info :
Check the chart for how many of these you need and in what colour order.
Round 0-2 :
row 0-2: like normal.
Round 3 :
row 3: finish row 3 like normal until you reach the space for the 2nd peak; in that chain space work: 3dc, ch2, 3dc. finish the rest of row 3 like normal.
Round 4 :
row 4: like normal, on the short side you make 2sc in the ch sp.
Round 5-6 :
row 5-6: like normal, but don't increase on the short side (make the same amount of rows as you did for the normal lanterns).
— Motif variation: horizontal half lantern :
Round 0 :
row 0: start with 1st colour, ch4, join with a slst in the 1st chain to make a loop.
Round 1 :
row 1: in the loop: ch3, dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 2dc, fasten off.
Round 2 :
row 2: attach 2nd colour to the top ch of the ch3, ch4 (the picture shows ch3 but make sure to ch4). *3dc in the next ch sp, ch2, 3dc in the same ch sp* repeat.
Round 3 :
row 3: attach 3rd colour in the first ch sp, ch3. dc in the same ch sp, 6dc in the next ch sp, 3dc in the next space. in the next ch sp, make a peak (normal length, so ch6). 3dc in the next space, 6dc in the next ch sp, 3dc in the next ch sp, 2dc in the last ch sp, fasten off.
Round 4 :
row 4: attach 3rd colour to the 1st stitch, ch1, sc in each st across, fasten off (this will make it easier to join the lanterns than if you do ch1 and turn).
Round Info :
size 1B/2B: add 1 more row of sc (don't forget to increase in the peak). size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc (don't forget to increase in the peak).
— Motif variation: vertical half lanterns :
Round 0 :
row 0: starting with 1st colour, ch5. join with a slst in the 1st ch to make a loop.
Round 1 :
row 1: ch4, 2dc in the loop. *ch2, 2dc in the loop* repeat 2 more times. ch1, dc in the loop, fasten off.
Round 2 :
row 2: attach 2nd colour in the first ch sp, ch3, 2dc in the same ch sp. in the next 4 spaces: 6dc, 3dc, 6dc, 3dc, fasten off.
Round 3 :
row 3: attach 2nd colour to the first stitch, ch1, sc in each stitch across, fasten off. (this makes joining the lanterns easier than ch1 and turn).
Round Info :
size 1B/2B: add 1 more row of sc (no increase). size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc (no increase).
— Joining the lanterns :
Info :
Now we're going to join the lanterns with 'joining rows' in colour A. Use the line drawings when joining the lanterns (first drawing is for size 1A*-1C and second for size 2A-2B). The 3 different length options are marked by lines (for example, for length S, you join until the lines marked with an S).
Info :
In the drawings I've used the colour orange to point out the 'joining rows' between the lanterns (these rows are made with colour A). Start by taking out the lanterns for the first 2 rows (make sure you have the right types of lanterns; the longer lanterns are marked with a star to make them more recognisable) and place them in the right order with the right sides up.
Info :
Each peak has 3 top stitches (it might look as if there are 4 top stitches, but the actual top stitches are the ones to the right). The centre stitch is the stitch halfway the lantern. When joining the lanterns you will make an extra sc in the centre stitch, so 2 in total: 1 to join to the 1st lantern and 1 to join the 2nd lantern.
Round 1 :
start on the right side (except when you're left handed), insert hook in the 1st st of the half lantern and the 1st st after the top stitches of the other lantern, so you have 4 loops on your hook.
Round 2 :
attach yarn here, pull up a loop and ch1. sc in the next st of both lanterns (both loops, so again, 4 loops on your hook) and the next stitches.
Round 3 :
make the last sc in the centre st + the last st before the top stitches (if these don't end up opposite each other, even it out by skipping or adding a st somewhere).
Round 4 :
make another sc in the centre st + the 1st st after the top stitches of the next lantern. join the next lantern here, in the same way as before (by making another sc in that centre st + the first st after the top st of the next lantern).
Round 5 :
continue until you reach the next centre st + last st before the top st. continue until you reach the end of this row, fasten off. the sc tend to lean a little towards you; use your fingers to push them away from you. it will look much better then.
Round Info :
now take the next lanterns for the next row and join them to this piece by making a new row of sc. When you've joined all your lanterns, fold the front panel over the back panel (wrong sides together) and join the blue lines (see drawings), just like you did with the other rows. Repeat on the other side of the top.
— Adding the ribbing :
Info :
In this last section we'll add the ribbing on the waist and the armholes, and the collar! Note: the photos in this section are for the top in size 1A, so if you're making a different size, the photos will not always correspond with the written instructions.
Round 1 :
6.1 making the ribbing for the waistline: we'll start by making a 'base row' of sc: turn your top so the waistline is facing up, attach yarn to the middle st of the lantern on the right side, ch1. make a row of sc all around the waistline, also make a sc in the 1st st of each 'joining row'. join with a slst to the ch1, do NOT fasten off.
Round 2 :
change to a hook that is 0.5 mm smaller (I use 3,5 mm), ch11 (this is to create a rib of 5 cm / 2 in; add 2ch for 1 cm/0,4 in extra or skip 2ch for 1 cm/0,4 in less). dc in 3rd ch from the hook.
Round 3 :
dc in each remaining ch (if you chained 11, the total is 10 dc; the first 2ch from the hook that you skip counts as the 1st dc!). *skip 1 st (not the st where the rib starts but the next one), slst in the next 3 stitches*.
Round 4 :
dc in the first dc from the hook (both loops). dc in the next 8 (if you chained 11) stitches (blo). dc in the last st (both loops), this might be a bit hard to see, but don't forget it! note: make this dc quite loose. ch2, this counts as the 1st dc for the next row of the rib. note: make these quite loose to not lose the stretch of the rib!
Round 5 :
dc in the next st and each remaining st (blo, except for the last one: both loops), repeat from * all the way around (make sure your stitch count stays the same!). you'll end up either at the top or the bottom of your rib, join with a row of slst on the inside (blo), fasten off.
Round Info :
6.2 making the ribbing for the armholes: For size 2A and 2B, we first have to round the armholes before adding the ribbing (for the other sizes, the armholes already have a round shape). For size 2A/2B only: I rounded this corner by making: 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 1tc, 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc in colour C (but you can also use colour A or B). make sure you make the tc in the centre of the corner. do this for all corners, so 4 in total.
Round 6 :
armhole ribbing instructions for all sizes: switch to the bigger hook again, start with one armhole and attach your yarn to a st in the middle of the armpit, ch1. start with a 'base row' of sc all the way around, also in the 1st stitches of the 'joining rows'. at the end, join with a slst to the ch1, switch to the smaller hook again, ch5 (this is for a rib of 2 cm/0,8 in; add 2ch for 1 cm/0,4 in extra).
Round 7 :
make the rib in the same way as the waist (because you ch5 instead of 11, each row will have 4dc instead of 10), all the way around. you'll end up at the top or the bottom of your rib, join with a row of slip stitches on the inside (blo), fasten off. repeat for the other armhole.
Round 8 :
6.3 making the collar: switch to the bigger hook again, attach yarn to the 1st st of the 'joining row' right from the centre of the neckline on the back, ch1. sc in the st which is joined by that 1st st of the 'joining row' (for the waist and arm ribs, we skipped these stitches, but we need them now for more stretch!).
Round 9 :
sc in each st across (don't forget to sc in the 1st st of the joining rows and the 2 stitches that are joined by this st), join with a slst in the ch1. turn your work so the neckline is facing towards you, slst to the next corner of the lantern on the left, change to the smaller hook again, ch12 (for a collar of 5 cm / 2 in).
Round 10 :
dc in 4th ch from the hook (this looks better than the 3rd), continue with the rib as before BUT instead of skip 1 st, slst in the next 3 st, just slst in the next 2 st (so no skipping). continue until you reach the middle lantern on the front (if you end at the top of the rib, slst down to the base row). slst to the other side of the middle lantern. ch12, continue the ribbing until you reach the middle lantern on the back (if you end at the top of the rib, slst down to the base row).
Round 11 :
ch6, slst in the same st to make a loop (you can also ch more if your button is bigger), slst to the place where you started with the collar, fasten off. sew a button on the other side of the collar so you can close the collar like this.
Info :
Note: instead of a button, you can also choose to make a bow. To do that: instead of making a loop for the button, chain the length you want the straps to be (make sure you have enough length to tie a bow), then make a row of slip stitches back to the base of the rib, slst to the other side of the collar, and make the other strap there.
Info :
Congrats, your Ada top is finished!
This Ada top pattern brings vintage-style lantern motifs into a wearable, modern cropped top that you will love to make and wear. It is fully customizable in length and size, and the clear photo tutorials make the joining and finishing steps easy to follow. Make in bright contrasting colours or soft pastels to suit your style — happy crocheting! 🧶🙂
