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Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas Top Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Aestas Top Pattern

This pattern creates a lightweight summer tank top with decorative openwork yoke and side panels, worked top-down seamlessly. Youll use worsted weight cotton for a breathable finish and learn short-row shaping for the front and back. The pattern includes clear round-by-round instructions and photo references for trickier sections.

Aestas Top Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed to be a quick, wearable make you can finish in a weekend, its great for making multiples to match your wardrobe. Fits are given for XS through XL and the pattern includes optional waist shaping advice.

Why You'll Love This Aestas Top Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines airy openwork with practical coverage for everyday wear. I enjoy how quickly the top takes shape working from the yoke down, and the short-row sections add a flattering curve without complicated seaming. The construction is efficient and versatile, letting me experiment with different cotton yarns and colors. I also love that blocking makes such a visible difference on the finished fabrics drape and stitch definition.

Aestas Top Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aestas Top Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aestas Top Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aestas Top Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love changing yarn colors to create new looks; try a block of stripes or a color gradient for a fresh twist.

I often use a lighter fingering yarn with a smaller hook to make a delicate, summer-ready version that is slightly smaller.

Want a chunkier, warmer version? I switch to aran or bulky cotton and a larger hook for a cozy textured top.

I sometimes lengthen the bodice by repeating rounds 3-6 additional times to make a tunic-length piece for more coverage.

I add optional waist shaping by decreasing rounds earlier or later depending on my waist position and how fitted I want the silhouette to be.

I like to embellish the openwork with tiny beads or a contrast edging along the armholes for a dressier finish.

I experiment with strap width by working additional rows of short rows to make thicker shoulder straps for more support.

I add a lightweight lining or slip when I want more modesty or to smooth the fabric against the skin.

I sometimes convert the side openwork into a full lace panel by repeating the ch-sp motif for a more dramatic look.

I also try different blocking shapes to change the finished drape and neckline curve; a gentle rectangular block will give a different look than a rounded block.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Twisting the foundation chain when joining to form a circle will ruin the yoke shape; always lay the chain flat and double-check before joining with a slip stitch. ✗ Working into the wrong chain bump when making Round 1 hdc will change your stitch count and texture; work into the back bump of the chains as instructed and count stitches at the end of the round. ✗ Skipping or miscounting the short rows at the back or front can distort the armhole shape; mark the start and end of short rows and count your stitches after each row to stay on track. ✗ Not pulling up and securing the working loop at the end of the back short rows may lead to unraveling; leave the working loop on the hook and the skein to rest until you rejoin it later. ✗ Failing to block the cotton garment will result in less even drape and inaccurate measurements; wash and gently block the finished top for best results.

Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas is Latin for summer — this breathable crochet top is designed for warm days and easy layering. Youll work the top seamlessly from the yoke down with pretty openwork panels at the sides and comfortable coverage at the front. The pattern uses worsted cotton and includes short row shaping and clear instructions to help you get a great fit.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Aestas Top Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn, approx 350 m (385 yards) for size XS
  • 02
    Worsted weight cotton yarn, approx 375 m (410 yards) for size S
  • 03
    Worsted weight cotton yarn, approx 425 m (465 yards) for size M
  • 04
    Worsted weight cotton yarn, approx 475 m (520 yards) for size L
  • 05
    Worsted weight cotton yarn, approx 550 m (600 yards) for size XL

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5 mm crochet hook (or hook needed to meet gauge)
  • 02
    Darning needle (yarn needle)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Slip stitch to join (hook) - implied
  • 05
    Blocking tools (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Yoke :

Info :

The yoke is a circle of 5 rows openwork crochet. It is worked in closed rounds without turning.

Info :

ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the ch's, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 3 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch + dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 4 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch + tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 5 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168) hdc's)

— Back Short Rows :

Info :

First, we are going to crochet 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) rows back and forth at the back.

Back Short Row 1 :

(RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2 :

(WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8 :

as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

Sizes M, L, XL only: Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

At the end of the last back short row, don't fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work doesn't start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we'll continue where we left off later.

— Front Short Rows :

Info :

We are going to work a few short rows at the front of the top as well. Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Now, look for the last dc of the first back short row and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc's from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke. (In other words, there should be 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) skipped hdc's between the end of the first back short row and the beginning of the first front short row.)

Front Short Row 1 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdc's, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dc's)

Front Short Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dc's)

Front Short Row 3 :

as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's)

Info :

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows. Now onto the bodice...

— Bodice :

Info :

Now we'll be working in closed rounds again, without turning. Rounds 3 and 5 are a little more complex, so I have included photos to help, below.

Bodice Round 1 :

(creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Now you should be at the end of the last back short row. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dc's across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1st and 4th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4th and 7th sc and so on (7th and 10th, 10th and 13th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtog's; the last 2trtog should have its second 'leg' in the final sc of the underarm section, ch 2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtog's)

Bodice Round 4 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sp's, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtog's)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Bodice Round 5 :

as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 sc's, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3rd and 6th sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 6th and 9th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtog's + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6 :

as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtog's] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Info :

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

— Optional Waist Shaping :

Info :

You may add waist shaping if you prefer the top slightly fitted at the waist. This is done by decreasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 10-15 of the bodice - or just below the bust - (total 12 sts decreased) and then increasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 22-25 - at the hips - (total 8 sts increased). My advice is to try on as you go to check where to begin and end the shaping rounds.

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

Info :

Fasten off, wash and block - blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!

— Tah-Dahh! Finished. :

Info :

There's nothing quite like seeing a pattern come to life in the hands of other makers. So please share and tag @hooked_by_anna #AestasTop on Instagram or create a project page on Ravelry! Thank you.

Assembly Instructions

  • At the end of the last back short row, do not fasten off; pull up the working loop and leave the skein to rest so your work does not unravel, then rejoin later to continue the front short rows.
  • When joining the front short rows, count the specified number of yoke hdc's (33 (32, 33, 31, 31)) and join to the correct hdc to ensure shoulder spacing is correct.
  • After finishing bodice rounds and shaping, fasten off and weave in all ends securely using a darning needle to prevent unraveling.
  • Wash and block the finished top to even out stitches and achieve final measurements and drape; blocking is especially important for cotton garments.
  • If you add optional waist shaping, try the top on as you go to determine the best placement of decreases and increases for your body shape.

Important Notes

  • 💡Be careful not to twist the foundation chain when joining to the circle for the yoke; lay the chain flat before slip stitching to join.
  • 💡Work into the back bump of the chains for Round 1 to get the correct gauge and stitch height for the yoke.
  • 💡At the end of the back short rows leave the working loop on the hook and the skein to rest so the fabric does not unravel before you continue.
  • 💡Repeat rounds 3-6 for the bodice until you reach the desired length, ending on a round 4 or 6 as specified for a neat finish.

This Aestas Top pattern was designed to celebrate summer with breathable cotton and elegant openwork. Make one for warm-weather strolls or dress it up for evenings out. Create multiple colorways and enjoy a weekend project that becomes a favorite in your wardrobe. 🧶👗

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FAQs

What sizes are included in the pattern?

The pattern includes sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) with bust measurements 78 (86, 95, 105, 115) cm or 31 (34, 37, 41, 45) inches.

What yarn and hook should I use?

Use worsted weight cotton yarn and a 5 mm crochet hook (or whichever hook gives the stated gauge of 14 dc x 8 rows = 10x10 cm / 4x4 inches).

Do I need experience with short rows?

Some short row experience is helpful but the pattern includes clear instructions and photos for the back and front short rows, so an adventurous beginner with basic skills can succeed.

How long will this project take?

Most makers finish this top in about 5-7 hours, depending on size, yarn choice, and experience level.