Make your own Grinch-inspired amigurumi with this detailed pattern designed for crafters who enjoy shaping, facial details, and a festive coat and hat. You will work in spiral rounds, shape the body and face, and add expressive eyes and tiny fingers. The pattern includes materials, tools, stitch glossary, and step-by-step rounds so you can follow along easily.
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— Leg :
Info :
Make two legs. Do NOT finish off the second leg; they will be joined for the body.
R1 :
Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
R2 :
Make 1 sc in each stitch around (6)
R3 :
2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (7)
R4 :
Make 1 sc in each stitch around (7)
R5 :
2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (8)
R6 :
Make 1 sc in each stitch around (8)
R7 :
2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (9)
R8 :
Make 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
R9 :
(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12)
R10 :
(Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)
R11 :
(Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
R12 :
(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
R13-17 :
5 rounds: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (24) – if working in the spiral that is 120 stitches
R18 :
(Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
R19-20 :
2 rounds: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (18) – spiral count is 36 stitches
Info :
Start stuffing and stuff as needed.
R21 :
sc in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 8 sc (this is 4 inv dec) (14)
R22 :
sc in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 4 sc (this is 2 inv dec) *these two decrease stitches are in the decrease stitches from the row before. (12) *lightly stuff foot
R23 :
sc in the next 8 stitches, inv dec 2 over the next 4sc (10)
R24 :
inv dec, sc in the next 6, inv dec (8)
R25-26 :
Make 1 sc in each stitch around (8) *note: if you are choosing to use foam rollers to help the foot bend up, please check your opening here to make sure your roller will fit. Mine was an exact fit, but if you have a tighter gauge or are using different materials you may need to stop the decrease above at R23 and skip the last decrease.
R28 :
sc in each stitch around (10)
R29-30 :
sc in each stitch around (12)
Info :
*insert your roller here if you are using one as it may be difficult later. I just twisted around and it went in like a bolt.
R31-48 :
You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 18 rows. That is 12 stitches around for 18 rows. For spiral crochet that is 216 stitches.
R49 :
(sc 3, inc sc) repeat around (15)
R50-59 :
You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 10 rows. That is 15 stitches around for 10 rows. For spiral crochet that is 150 stitches. For only the first leg, finish with a slip stitch and cut yarn.
Info :
Stuff top of leg (quad) very well.
Info :
After finishing the second leg, do not fasten off, but figure out the shape of your legs/feet and how you want them to point/turn/stand on your finished piece and hold them together. You are going to be joining them with a chain 2. You want that chain 2 to be in the middle of the inside of the legs. So, on your second leg you may need to either work a few extra stitches or pull back a few to join them together. Please check the position of your legs and make sure they are how you like them before you join.
Info :
You will slip stitch in the stitch that your chain 2 will start on the second leg, chain 2 and slip stitch on the other leg on the mirror side.
— Body :
R1 :
After joining the legs, you will crochet evenly around each leg and in the chain 2 – both on the front and back of the chain 2- that will give you 34 stitches – 15 on each leg and 4 in the chain 2 space (front and back)
Rounds 2-3 :
Sc around in each stitch. (34)(34)
R4 :
On this round you need to make 2 inc sc evenly. I chose to make one inc sc on each side of the body (36)
Info :
Okay, this is where you need to start shaping the tummy. You will be doing traditional amigurumi counts as far as increases go – 36 to 42, 42 to 48 etc, but you will be making all of the increases on the stomach side. The first step is to lay your work down and find the sides of the stomach.
R5 :
For this round you will be increasing from 36 to 42 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. For example, I had 14 stitches in between my markers -so, I added my increases like this: 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 4, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc (42)
R6-7 :
sc in each stitch around (42)
R8 :
For this round you will be increasing from 42 to 48 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Do the increases evenly like on Row 5.
R9-11 :
sc in each stitch around (48)
R12 :
For this round you will be increasing from 48 to 54 stitches – that is 6 increase stitches – all on the front like before.
R13-15 :
sc in each stitch around (54)
Info :
***now the tummy starts decreasing. You will do inv sc dec evenly on front just like you did the inc sc.
R16 :
For this round you will be decreasing from 54 to 48 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above.
R17-18 :
sc in each stitch around (48)
R19 :
For this round you will be decreasing from 48 to 42 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above. (42)
R20-21 :
sc in each stitch around (42)
R22 :
For this round you will be decreasing from 42 to 36 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above. (36)
R23 :
sc in each stitch around (36)
Info :
***on these next decreases you can go back to traditional decreases.
R24 :
(1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
R25-28 :
sc in each stitch around (30)
Info :
Start stuffing and continue as needed.
R29 :
(1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
R30-31 :
sc in each stitch around (24)
R32 :
(1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
R33-34 :
sc in each stitch around (18)
Info :
Stuff, stuff, stuff *stuff GOOD!!! You need this neck to be firm
R35 :
(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
R36-39 :
sc in each stitch around (12)
R40 :
(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
R41 :
(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
R42 :
(1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
R43 :
sc in each stitch around (30)
R44 :
(1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
R45 :
(1 sc in next 5 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
R46 :
sc in each stitch around (42)
R47 :
*you will be doing 6 more increases on this round, but like above for the belly, you need to place all 6 of the increases on the front of the face. The cheeks specifically. Place 3 inc sc on each side of the face for the cheeks. You can see in this photo where I have marked where I placed the 3 inc sc on each side of the face. Each of my marked stitches in the photo gets 2sc in each one. You are gong from 42 to 48 stitches.
R48 :
sc in each stitch around (48)
R49 :
repeat round 47, but space them out more – like: sc, inc sc, sc, inc sc, sc, inc sc
Info :
You are going from 48 to 54 stitches.
R50-51 :
sc in each stitch around (54)
R52 :
Decreases start now, BUT these decreases need to go above the same place over the cheek where the increases are for shaping. So, find your increase stitches and make your decreases straight up from where those are. On R52 you go from 54 back to 48. The 6 inv dec stitches are on the cheeks only.
R53 :
sc in each stitch around (48)
R54 :
repeat round 52. You are going from 48 to 42 stitches.
R55 :
back to traditional decreases evenly spaced around. Go from 42 to 36: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
R56 :
(1 sc in next 4 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Info :
*check your stuffing in the neck and make sure it is stuffed very well. It must hold up the head.
R57-66 :
sc in each stitch around (30) *stuff the lower head and cheeks and shape. This part really makes a difference to the face so push the stuffing around and shape the face carefully.
— Head :
Info :
*I choose to do my eyes and face and sew everything on before I sew the head shut so that I can make sure all my ends are tied and secure from the inside. If you also prefer to do this, skip down to the eyes pattern and finish the face and then come back up to here.
R67 :
(1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
R68 :
(1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
R69 :
(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
R70 :
sc in each stitch around. FO and leave a tail to sew closed.
Info :
*I made a short tassel and threaded the tails from the inside the head to the outside and tied them before sewing.
— Eyes :
Info :
I added safety eyes in the center of the white before I sewed the eyes down. I used black to make some frown lines and the mouth.
Eyes :
with white: Chain 2 and make 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Chain 1 and turn.
Eyes :
Make 2sc in each stitch across (10) Chain 1 and turn.
Eyes :
Make (1 sc, 2sc)* across (15) *on the last stitch change to a darker green or black color. Chain 1 and turn.
Eyes :
In green or black, work down the flat side. Make 6 evenly spaced hdc across the flat side. Chain 1 and turn.
Eyes :
Sc in the first 5 hdc, 2hdc in the last hdc, 2hdc in the next white stitch on the eye and then slip stitch in next. FO and leave a long tail to sew. This long tail is the outside, upper edge of the eye. If you use it to sew down the eye toward the nose you can use these tails to also embroider the nose. Use the photo below for placement.
— Arms :
Info :
Leave a long tail because these arms start at the shoulder and work toward the fingers so you will use that long tail to sew the arm to the body.
R1 :
Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
R1 cont :
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
Info :
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. Now, pull that long tail back out the top of the arm for sewing later.
Round 3 :
(Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4-5 :
sc in each stitch around (18)
Round 6 :
(1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Rounds 7-16 :
sc in each stitch around (12) *you can add a bit of stuffing to just the shoulder or not. I did not in my first example, but in my second one I did.
Round 17 :
(sc, sc, inv dec) * (9)
Rounds 18-27 :
sc in each stitch around (9)
Fingers :
Slip stitch in the next stitch, chain 6, sc back up this chain for 5 sc, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 6, sc back up the chain for 5 sc, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 7, sc 6 back up the chain, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 8, sc 7 back up the chain, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 6, sc back up the chain for 5 sc. FO and use the tail to sew the hand shut.
Info :
It is best to now take the arms to your steam iron and relax them a little with a bit of steam. This will soften and relax the arms and fingers. I also gently pulled on mine to lengthen them a little. Now, sew onto body.
— Coat :
Info :
NEW ADDITION: COAT AND HAT. This coat is super easy to make and also easy to modify to be shorter or longer. I used my size I/5mm hook for the coat and hat.
For the length of the coat :
Chain 51.
Row 1 :
In the 2nd chain from the hook, hdc and hdc in each chain across (50) Chain 1 and turn
Rows 2-5 :
are hdc across the chain for each row with a chain 1 and turn at the end of each.
Row 6 :
After row 5 you will chain 1 and turn, but then hdc only 25 hdc. Then, Chain 26 and turn.
Row 7 :
In the 2nd chain from the hook you will hdc and hdc in each chain/stitch back down for (50 hdc)
Rows 8-11 :
Repeat 2-5. Do NOT Finish off.
Info :
Now, fold the front pieces down and pin in place to make an arm hole. You need to know how many stitches to leave open for the arms.
Info :
Your yarn should be in the perfect place on the coat to pick it back up and crochet or slip stitch through the two layers (front and back) to close up the side of the coat. Make about 20 sc or slip stitch up, but leave the arm hole open. SC about 14 sc around the arm hole – all around – front and back (see photo) – you will continue working in the round in a continuous spiral manner until the length of the coat arm is what you need. Mine was about 17 rounds. Finish with a slip stitch and cut yarn. You can weave in the end or work over it with your white. Do a few rows in white for the cuff.
Info :
Join red yarn on the other side and repeat as above to make the second arm.
Info :
After you have both arms complete, attach your yarn to the front bottom side (see photo on next page) and sc evenly up the side, around the next and down the other side. Continue around the bottom and make 3sc in each corner on front.
Info :
Before doing round 2 in the white for the collar, mark the 10/11 neck stitches on each side. *you may have 10 or 11. If you have 11 with a center stitch in between the two sets of 10 on each side that is perfectly fine.
Info :
After you have marked the neck/collar stitches, sc in each stitch around for round 2, but make hdc in all the stitches between the markers for the collar. Sc in all the rest of the stitches all the way back around to where you started round 2.
Row 3 :
is a repeat of round 2. You will sc in sc and hdc in hdc. Finish and weave in the end.
— Hat :
Info :
Start in red with your size I/5mm hook. *note: If you want less of a "point" on your hat do one less round for each of the straight rounds. I’ll notate that below.
Chain :
Chain 2. Single crochet 4 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Info :
Continue in the spiral with no join. Work over your starting tail for a few rounds and then pull to cinch up the opening. Leave this tail if you wish to use it to sew on your pompom. If you do, you may want to pull it out to the right side of your hat.
Rounds 2-3 :
sc in each stitch around (4) *only do round 2 for less of a point
Round 4 :
(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (6)
Rounds 5-6 :
sc in each stitch around (6) *only do round 5 for less of a point
Round 7 :
(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (8)
Rounds 8-9 :
sc in each stitch around (8) *only do round 8 for less of a point
Round 10 :
(1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12)
Round 11 :
(1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)
Round 12 :
(1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 13 :
(1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Rounds 14-15 :
sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 16 :
(1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Rounds 17+ :
sc in each stitch around for length. (30) I did 8 rounds on my example. You can do more or less depending on the fit you want.
Info :
Attach your white when you are done and sc around in white. After you get this first round in white finished, do another round of HDC in the FLO. This will help the edge of the hat lift up like a cuff. Hdc around again for one or two more rounds for the hat edge and then finish off. Weave in your end and attach your pompom.
Info :
Thank you for purchasing my pattern.
This Grinch-inspired amigurumi pattern brings a classic holiday character to life with shaping and personality. Whether you make a plain Grinch or add the festive coat and hat, the result is full of charm and mischief. Perfect for gifting or seasonal decor — happy crocheting! 🧶🎄
