🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through making Anglerfish SAM, a whimsical stuffed fish with detailed fins, tail, jaw and a lamp-like fishing line. You will work mainly in single crochet with joining techniques to form the fins and body. Techniques include making many small "rays" (finger-like pieces), joining them into fins, wiring for structure, and assembling the jaw and muzzle into a single expressive head. The finished toy is decorative, highly detailed, and roughly 18 x 35 cm depending on yarn and tension.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern includes full materials, abbreviations, and step-by-step instructions for every finger-ray, fin, tail and body round. Photographs and diagrams show how to join pieces, add wire reinforcement, and place teeth and beads.

Why You'll Love This Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful character design with precise construction techniques to make a reliable, quirky amigurumi. I enjoy the challenge of creating many small ray pieces and joining them into expressive fins — it gives the fish a signature silhouette. The wiring and lamp detail add an engineering element that makes the finished toy interactive and display-ready. I also appreciate the clear step-by-step photos and tables that make complex joins much easier to follow.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how customizable this pattern is, and I often change colors to create different personalities for SAM — try a gradient or variegated yarn for a shimmering ocean look.

If you want a smaller or larger fish, change your yarn weight and hook size; bulky yarn with a larger hook will make a chunky version, while fine yarn creates a cute mini amigurumi.

You can swap the wired copper arm for a flexible plastic-coated wire if you want a safer, more child-friendly lamp arm that still holds shape.

Try adding felt or embroidered expressions on the muzzle to change mood — a stitched eyebrow or mouth curve can make SAM look mischievous or kindly.

I sometimes replace the bead decorations with sequins or small shells to create a sea-treasure themed fish for coastal decor.

For a luminous lamp effect, use a battery-powered LED bulb or fairy light instead of a hard bulb and hide the battery pack inside the body for a soft glow.

Make matching small fish companions by using leftover yarn and reducing rounds proportionally to create a family set.

Experiment with different teeth materials — polymer clay teeth are more durable and can be painted for realistic effects; crochet teeth look softer and are safer for toys.

If you want posable fins and tail, braid or wrap extra wire inside the fins for stronger, longer-lasting posing.

I often embellish the eye area with embroidery or use safety eyes in different sizes to alter the character; large eyes make SAM whimsical, smaller eyes create a mysterious look.

Consider adding a small pocket or loop at the back so SAM can be hung as quirky wall decor or used as a unique lamp shade accent.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker repositioning will cause the center line of the back to drift; make shift stitches and move the main marker regularly to keep the center line straight. ✗ Overstuffing the finger-rays creates stiff, misshapen fins and tails; stuff them lightly with polyester and shape as you go for natural movement. ✗ Inserting the wire before the item is properly reinforced can cause twisting and misalignment; follow the pattern instructions and only insert wire at the recommended step to avoid twisting. ✗ Not weaving in ends neatly when joining rays may create gaps or holes; weave in ends and use the recommended joining method (drawing up loops as shown) to avoid holes between joins. ✗ Using a larger hook than recommended will make the fabric loose and the piece floppy; use the specified 1.5 mm hook for body and 1.0-1.25 mm for teeth to keep tight, even stitches.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own charming Anglerfish SAM with this detailed intermediate crochet pattern. You will create a unique toy that doubles as quirky home decor or a playful night lamp. The pattern includes step-by-step instructions for fins, tail, jaw, muzzle, teeth, and assembly so you can confidently craft every piece. Follow the photos and notes to achieve a polished, characterful finish.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Vita Brilliant Print multicolor yarn (45% wool, 55% acrylic; 380 m/100 g) - main multicolor (2604), approx 1.5 skein
  • 02
    Vita Brilliant solid yarn (45% wool, 55% acrylic; 380 m/100 g) - green (4981) or chosen solid color, approx 0.5 skein
  • 03
    Vita Pelican yarn (100% mercerized cotton; 330 m/50 g) - white (3951) for eyes and teeth (or use polymer clay for eyes/teeth)
  • 04
    Vita Pelican yarn leftovers: yellow (3998), silver gray (3965) and black (3952) for the light bulb details (small amounts)
  • 05
    Embroidery floss or Iris cotton for details and teeth if desired
  • 06
    Beads: 10/0 Preciosa Flame Dark Topaz and 6/0 Preciosa Flame Turquoise for adornment (small quantities)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.5 mm (main)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.0 mm or 1.25 mm (for teeth and very small details)
  • 03
    Wire 1.0-1.5 mm copper approx. 6 m (for internal frames and fishing line arm)
  • 04
    Light bulb or mini LED lamp for lamp detail (order extras)
  • 05
    Stuffing polyester
  • 06
    White fabric plaster or insulation tape
  • 07
    Toy eyes or beads (approx size 12 mm recommended, 2 items) or make eyes from yarn/polymer clay
  • 08
    Transparent glue (optional for gluing eyes)
  • 09
    Needle and nylon thread for sewing beads
  • 10
    Sewing needle and yarn needle for assembly
  • 11
    Stitch markers
  • 12
    Wire cutter
  • 13
    Scissors
  • 14
    Pins for assembly

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— Fins :

Side fin :

Make two with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Start with finger-rays using solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook. The following instructions are given for one fin!

Round 1 :

A - 2 rays: 1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring.

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

4-5) sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-10 :

8-10) sc in each st around (8)

Info :

After having made one ray, cut off the yarn, but do not cut the yarn after having made the second ray. Continue working from the marker of the second ray.

Round 11 :

B - 2 rays: 11) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Info :

Join the rays together according to the following instructions. The sign (scissor icon) means increase of the previous rnd, so the diagram shows how to place fingers "B" and at what places to join the rays to each other. (You have to match the increases with increases). When joining rays together you DO NOT have to make increases or decreases! To avoid holes between the rays when joining them together you have to draw up one more loop through the same place where you have just made a sc as you are going to make another sc but do not crochet it. As a result, you have two sts on the hook. Then draw up another loop through the st in the previous rnd of the other ray (the one you are going to join the first ray to). As a result, you have 3 sts on the hook. Now you have to make a sc through the all 3 sts. It looks like you have made increase and decrease at the same time and in the end you have made only one sc.

Round 12 :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A" (make the 4th sc as described above to avoid holes - do not forget to do this when joining all the other rays!), 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "B", 8 sc around finger "A"; turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (40)

Round 13 :

2) 2 sc tog, 16 sc, (2 sc tog) * 2, 16 sc, 2 sc tog (36) + shift st

Round 14 :

3) (16 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (34)

Round 15 :

4) (15 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (32) + shift st

Round 16 :

5) (14 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (30)

Round 17 :

6) (13 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (28) + shift st

Round 18 :

7) (12 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (26)

Round 19 :

8) (11 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (24) + shift st

Round 20 :

9) (10 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (22). Change the yarn into the multicolor yarn.

Round 21 :

10) (9 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (20) + shift st

Round 22-24 :

11-13) sc in each st around (20) + shift st

Round 25 :

14) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (22)

Round 26 :

15) (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (24). Fasten off and weave in the end.

Info :

Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself. Reinforce the fin. You will need at least 120 cm of wire for one fin (it is much better to cut off excess wire than to add more wire). Insert the even parts of the wire into each finger so to make the ends coming out of the fin even. One end of the wire will make the frame of the fishing line and the other end will form the spine of the fish.

Lower fin :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Instructions how to make finger-rays:

Round 1 :

A - 2 rays: 1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring.

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

4-5) sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-9 :

8-9) sc in each st around (8)

Info :

After having made one ray, cut off the yarn and weave un the end, but do not cut the yarn after having made the second ray. Continue working from the marker of the second ray.

Round 10 :

10) 2 sc in next at, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Info :

Join the rays together according the following instructions. This sign means increase of the previous rnd, so the diagram shows how to place fingers "B" to finger "A". When joining rays together you DO NOT have to make these increases!

Lower fin join 1 :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "B", 8 sc around finger "A", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (28).

Round 2 :

2) (2 sc in next st, 13 sc) * 2 (30) + shift st

Round 3 :

3) (2 sc in next st, 14 sc) * 2 (32)

Round 4 :

4) (2 sc in next st, 15 sc) * 2 (34). Fasten off and weave in the end. Do not insert the wire at this step. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself.

Dorsal fin :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Attention! In order not to mix the fingers I recommend grouping them and labeling them with name labels (see Appendix).

Instructions :

Instructions how to make finger-rays: A - 1 ray, B - 1 ray, C - 2 rays, D - 3 rays, E - 1 ray.

Round 1 :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring.

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

4-5) sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-12 :

8-12) sc in each st around (8) - A

Round 8-16 :

8-16) sc in each st around (8) - B

Round 8-15 :

8-15) sc in each st around (8) - C

Round 8-13 :

8-13) sc in each st around (8) - D

Round 8-12 (E) :

8-12) sc in each st around (8) - E. Do not cut the yarn; continue working from the marker of this ray.

Round 17 :

17) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Round 16 :

16) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Round 14 :

14) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Info :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "C", 5 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 5 sc around finger "D", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (58).

Round join 2 :

2) Join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 2 sc in next st, 28 sc around the item you have just made, 5 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 5 sc around finger "D", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 29 sc around the item you have just made (73) + shift st.

Round join 3 :

2) join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 2 sc in next st, 36 sc around the item you have just made, 5 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 5 sc around finger "D", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 36 sc around the item you have just made (88).

Round join 4 :

4) Join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 2 sc in next st, 43 sc around the item you have just made, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger "E", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 44 sc around the item you have just made (98).

Round 5 :

5) (2 sc in next st, 48 sc) * 2 (100) + shift st

Round 6 :

6) (2 sc in next st, 49 sc) * 2 (102) + shift st

Round 7 :

7) (2 sc in next st, 50 sc) * 2 (104). Fasten off and weave in the end. Do not insert the wire at this step. The item you have just made may twist. Do not worry about that. When you insert the wire, it will stop twisting. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself.

Tail :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Instructions how to make finger-rays:

Tail Round 1 :

A - 2 rays (make them only after you have made all B and C rays) / B - 4 rays / C - 1 ray: 1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring.

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

4-5) sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-11 :

8-11) sc in each st around (8) - A / 8-12) sc in each st around (8) - B / 8-12) sc in each st around (8) - C

Round 12 :

13) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Info :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "C", 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger "B", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "C", 3 sc, 2 sc in next st around finger "A" (30).

Round 2 :

2) (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (32)

Round 3 :

3) (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (34). Fasten off and weave in the end. Stuff the finger-rays and the tail with polyester. Put 2 "B" fingers aside. You will use them later.

Round 4 :

4) The marker is on finger "A". Join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 4 sc around finger "A", 17 sc around the item you have just made, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger "B", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 17 sc around the item you have just made, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st around finger "A" (52).

Round 5-11 :

5-11) sc in each st around (52). Reinforce the tail. Fold the tail in half. Cut 1 m of wire, insert even parts of the wire into the rays so the ends coming out of the tail are even. Take the ends of the wire in the upper and lower edges of the tail between Rnds 8 and 9. Wrap the ends of the wire with plaster.

Round 12 :

12) (2 sc tog, 22 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (48)

Round 13 :

13) (2 sc tog, 20 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (44)

Round 14 :

14) (2 sc tog, 18 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (40)

Round 15 :

15) (2 sc tog, 16 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (36)

Round 16 :

16) (2 sc tog, 14 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (32). Fasten off and weave in the end. Stuff the finger-rays and the tail with polyester. You now have this funny tail.

— Body :

Lower jaw :

Make one with multicolor yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. The marker goes along the side edge of the jaw. You do not have to change its position.

Round 1 :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring.

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (18)

Round 4 :

4) sc, 2 sc in next st, (2 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, sc (24)

Round 5 :

5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (30)

Round 6 :

6) 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

7) (5 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (42)

Round 8 :

8) 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

9) (7 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (54)

Round 10 :

10) 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 11 :

11) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (66)

Round 12 :

12) 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 5 sc (72)

Round 13 :

13) (11 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (78)

Round 14 :

14) 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, (12 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 6 sc (84)

Round 15 :

15) (13 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (90)

Round 16 :

16) sc in each st around (90)

Round 17 :

17) 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 7 sc (96)

Round 18 :

18) sc in each st around (96)

Round 19 :

19) (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (102)

Round 20 :

20) sc in each st around (102)

Round 21 :

21) 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, (16 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 8 sc (108)

Round 22 :

22) sc in each st around (108)

Round 23 :

23) (35 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (111)

Round 24 :

24) sc in each st around (111)

Round 25 :

25) 18 sc, 2 sc in next st, (36 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 18 sc (114)

Round 26 :

26) sc in each st around (114)

Round 27 :

27) (37 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (117)

Round 28 :

28) sc in each st around (117)

Round 29 :

29) 19 sc, 2 sc in next st, (38 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 19 sc (120)

Round 30 :

30) sc in each st around (120)

Round 31 :

31) (39 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (123)

Round 32 :

32) sc in each st around (123)

Round 33 :

33) 20 sc, 2 sc in next st, (40 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 20 sc (126)

Round 34-35 :

34-35) sc in each st around (126)

Round 36 :

36) (41 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (129)

Round 37 :

37) sc in each st around (129)

Round 38 :

38) 21 sc, 2 sc in next st, (42 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 21 sc (132)

Round 39 :

39) ((2 sc in next st) * 2, 64 sc) * 2 (136)

Round 40 :

40) sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 66 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 65 sc (140)

Round 41 :

41) 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 68 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 66 sc (144)

Round 42 :

42) 3 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 70 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 67 sc (148), ss. Fasten off, weave in the end.

Muzzle :

Make one with multicolor yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. The marker goes along the back. You do not need the change position of the marker before you start joining the muzzle and the jaw.

Round 1 :

1) Make a MR, 7 sc into the ring.

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (14)

Round 3 :

3) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 7 (21)

Round 4 :

4) sc, 2 sc in next st, (2 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6, sc (28)

Round 5 :

5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 7 (35)

Round 6 :

6) 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6, 2 sc (42)

Round 7 :

7) 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 8 :

8) (7 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (54)

Round 9 :

9) 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 10 :

10) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (66)

Round 11 :

11) 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 5 sc (72)

Round 12 :

12) (11 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (78)

Round 13 :

13) 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, (12 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 6 sc (84)

Round 14 :

14) sc in each st around (84)

Round 15 :

15) (13 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (90)

Round 16 :

16) sc in each st around (90)

Round 17 :

17) 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 7 sc (96)

Round 18 :

18) sc in each st around (96)

Round 19 :

19) (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (102)

Round 20 :

20) sc in each st around (102)

Round 21 :

21) 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, (16 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 8 sc (108)

Round 22 :

22) sc in each st around (108)

Round 23 :

23) (17 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (114)

Round 24 :

24) sc in each st around (114)

Round 25 :

25) 9 sc, 2 sc in next st, (18 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 9 sc (120)

Round 26 :

26) sc in each st around (120)

Round 27 :

27) (39 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (123)

Round 28 :

28) sc in each st around (123)

Round 29 :

29) 20 sc, 2 sc in next st, (40 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 20 sc (126)

Round 30 :

30) sc in each st around (126)

Round 31 :

31) (41 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (129)

Round 32-37 :

32-37) sc in each st around (129). Do not cut the yarn. Now you have to join the lower jaw and the muzzle into one impudent greedy muzzle.

Info :

How to assemble the muzzle and the lower jaw. Fold the lower jaw to place the increases in opposite corners. There are 72 sts on the inner side of the jaw (including the increases of the previous rnd) and there are 76 sts on the outer side of the jaw (including the increases of the previous rnd). There are 148 sts in total on the lower jaw (76 + 72). Turn the muzzle so that the marker is in the center of the future back. The back comprises 57 sts, the inner part of the muzzle hiding under the lower jaw comprises 72 sts. The total number of sts for the muzzle is 129 sts (57 + 72). Start working from this marker. I recommend using 50 cm of cotton yarn as marker. It facilitates counting the rnds and placing additional markers for the fins. Do not remove the marker until you finish work. Now it is the main marker! It goes along the center of the back. You have to change the position of the marker from time to time making sure it always goes along the center of the back. You can do this by making shift sts. Now you can remove previous markers (those of the muzzle and the lower jaw).

Join Round 1 :

1) 28 sc around the muzzle, then insert the hook into 29th st of the muzzle and between 1st and 2nd sts of the lower jaw (near the first increase), join the inner part of the lower jaw and the muzzle, make 72 sc inserting the hook through the sts of the muzzle and the jaw at the same time (you have to put the items RS facing each other and insert the hook from inside of the jaw), 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (129).

Join Round 2 :

2) 28 sc from the marker around the muzzle, insert the hook between 1st and 2nd sts near the increase of the lower jaw, 76 sc around the outer part of the lower jaw, 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (133). Then continue working around the outer contour only (muzzle and the outer side of the lower jaw).

Round 3 :

3) 2 sc in next st, 132 sc (134)

Round 4 :

4) sc in each st around (134)

Round 5 :

5) 2 sc in next st, 133 sc (135)

Round 6-10 :

6-10) sc in each st around (135)

Round 11 :

11) 2 sc tog, 133 sc (134)

Round 12 :

12) (2 sc tog, 65 sc) * 2 (132)

Round 13 :

13) 32 sc, 2 sc tog, 64 sc, 2 sc tog, 32 sc (130)

Round 14 :

14) 16 sc, 2 sc tog, 94 sc, 2 sc tog, 16 sc (128)

Round 15 :

15) (2 sc tog, 62 sc) * 2 (126)

Round 16 :

16) 31 sc, 2 sc tog, 61 sc, 2 sc tog, 30 sc (124)

Round 17 :

17) 15 sc, 2 sc tog, 90 sc, 2 sc tog, 15 sc (122)

Round 18 :

18) 2 sc tog, 120 sc (121)

Round 19 :

19) 29 sc, 2 sc tog, 59 sc, 2 sc tog, 29 sc (119)

Round 20 :

20) 15 sc, 2 sc tog, 85 sc, 2 sc tog, 15 sc (117)

Round 21 :

21) 2 sc tog, 115 sc (116)

Round 22 :

22) 28 sc, 2 sc tog, 56 sc, 2 sc tog, 28 sc (114)

Round 23 :

23) 15 sc, 2 sc tog, 80 sc, 2 sc tog, 15 sc (112)

Round 24 :

24) 2 sc tog, 110 sc (111)

Round 25 :

25) 27 sc, 2 sc tog, 53 sc, 2 sc tog, 27 sc (109)

Round 26 :

26) 14 sc, 2 sc tog, 77 sc, 2 sc tog, 14 sc (107)

Round 27 :

27) 2 sc tog, 105 sc (106)

Round 28 :

28) 26 sc, 2 sc tog, 50 sc, 2 sc tog, 26 sc (104)

Round 29 :

29) 13 sc, 2 sc tog, 74 sc, 2 sc tog, 13 sc (102)

Info :

At this step you have to reinforce the jaw to make the fish keep shape and fix the teeth. If you crochet tightly enough, it is not necessary to make the wire frame. Cut a piece of wire as long as the outer contour of the jaw + 1 more cm at each end. With pliers, make small loops at the ends of the wire. Try the frame on to the body and fix it with pins. In order to make a toothy smile you have to make 2 sets of teeth using the following diagram. You can place teeth as you like. You can insert a wire inside the teeth to make them stronger and looking more interesting. DO NOT forget to wrap the ends of the wire in order to avoid injuries! :) Take your time. Make teeth with 1.0 mm or 1.25 mm crochet hook (depending on the yarn you use) and white or gray yarn following the instructions given below. You can make as many teeth as you want.

Teeth - A :

A - 2 teeth: 1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2-3) sc in each st around (6). 4) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (9). 5-10) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth - B :

B - 2 teeth: 2-3) sc in each st around (6). 5-8) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth - C :

C - 2 teeth: 5-6) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth - D :

D - 8/10 teeth: 2-4) sc in each st around (6). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join the muzzle and the lower jaw: 28 sc around the muzzle, insert hook into next st of the muzzle and between 1st and 2nd sts of the lower jaw, join inner part of the lower jaw and the muzzle making 72 sc through both pieces (129 sts total), then continue 29 sc around the muzzle until marker to complete the joining round.
  • Reinforce the jaw by cutting a piece of wire equal to the outer contour of the jaw + 1 cm at each end, make small loops at the wire ends with pliers, test the frame on the jaw and pin it in place, then cover and secure the wire and fix the jaw to the body.
  • Attach fins and tail by aligning the fin bases along the body marker lines, pin each fin in place to check symmetry, sew firmly with yarn needle using matching yarn, and insert the wire frames (where applicable) into the finger-rays so ends are even and hidden between rounds specified in the pattern.
  • Make and position teeth: create two sets of teeth (A, B, C, D types), optionally insert thin wire inside teeth and wrap wire ends securely, then arrange and sew the teeth into the jaw to create the toothy smile per the photos and diagrams.
  • Install the fishing line lamp: run the copper wire through the internal frame (from tail/spine area to the lamp arm), cover joins with insulation tape or fabric plaster and attach the bulb securely to the top of the arm once covered and wrapped.
  • Sew on eyes and bead decorations: position eyes according to photo reference (large eye sockets shown), glue or sew safety eyes securely, then sew beads around the body for ornamentation using nylon thread and needle.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of the main center line of the back and reposition the marker with shift stitches to ensure the marker always runs along the center.
  • 💡Do not overstuff the finger-rays or fins; stuff lightly with polyester and shape as you go to maintain a natural feel and mobility.
  • 💡Insert wire only at the steps specified; inserting wire too early can twist the piece, and inserting it too late can make shaping difficult.
  • 💡Label finger-rays with the provided appendix labels while making many similar rays to prevent mixing and to keep proper placement during assembly.

This delightful Anglerfish SAM pattern brings a quirky ocean creature to life with textured fins, a wired lamp arm, and a toothy grin. Make a charming decorative companion that doubles as a conversation-starting lamp or shelf friend. Perfect for adventurous crocheters who love character details and structural finishing. 🐟🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished toy measures approximately 18 x 35 cm when using the recommended yarns and the specified wire frame; final size will vary with yarn weight and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can change yarn weight, but it will affect final size and density; choose appropriate hook sizes (larger hook for bulkier yarn, smaller for finer yarn) and adjust wire frames and stuffing accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, working in the round, and joining pieces; experience with small-hook work is helpful for teeth and details.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will finish this project in 12-15 hours, depending on experience, speed, and customization choices such as added beads or wiring.

Is wiring necessary for the fins and jaw?

Wiring is recommended for structure and to make the lamp arm and fins poseable, but if you crochet very tightly you may omit some wire; follow the reinforcement steps for best results.