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Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern

Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet Parasaurolophus Ginny, a sweet little dino with a distinctive crest and cute spots. It uses three yarn colors and a jacquard color-changing technique to create a white breast and patterned back. The pattern contains full round-by-round instructions, photo references, and assembly guidance so you can finish a poseable toy with a secure cotter-pin head.

Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes instructions for head, neck, body, tail, legs, hands, spots, and bonus 3D glasses. Follow the step-by-step rounds and photos for precise placement and finishing.

Why You'll Love This Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it captures personality in every stitch — Ginny feels lively and tactile. I enjoy the jacquard technique used for the breast because it adds a polished, professional-looking contrast without complicated extra pieces. The crest and spots are such charming details that really bring the design to life and make each finished toy unique. Sewing the parts together and adding the cotter-pin mechanism is especially satisfying, as it makes the head posable and gives the toy extra character.

Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily you can customize Ginny by changing the yarn colors — try soft pastels for a baby-dino look or bright contrasts for a playful version.

To make Ginny larger or smaller, swap yarn weight and adjust hook size: bulky yarn with a larger hook makes a chunky plush, while fine yarn and a small hook create a delicate mini.

I often embroider different eye expressions to change personality; moving the eyes slightly up or down or altering eyebrow placement makes Ginny look shy, curious, or cheeky.

Try adding tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf, hat, or a little felt egg to give Ginny a story and make unique gifts.

Experiment with the placement and number of spots — cluster them for a whimsical pattern or space them evenly for a more natural look.

Swap the cotter pin head for a sewn head if you prefer a stationary toy for very young children — just sew the head securely to the body instead.

For extra stability, you can insert a small length of floral wire into the tail before stuffing to help Ginny hold poses while standing.

If you want a softer finish, use cotton-blend yarn for a smooth look or textured tweed for a vintage feel — both change the toy's character nicely.

Embellish the glasses by wrapping floral wire with thread or painting plastic lenses to match the color scheme — the glasses are a fun focal point to personalize.

I like adding a tiny felt or embroidered name tag sewn to the underside of Ginny for gifting — it adds a sweet, handmade touch and is a lovely finishing detail.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when working in rounds will make it hard to track the start of rounds; place a marker at the first single crochet of each round to keep your counts accurate. ✗ Changing colors without securing yarn tails can create messy floats and loose ends; carry yarn neatly and weave in ends, or fasten off and join neatly at color transitions following the jacquard instructions. ✗ Overstuffing limbs and body creates a distorted shape and makes assembly difficult; stuff gradually and firmly but not too tightly, shaping as you go to keep proportions correct. ✗ Not checking stitch counts after increases or decreases will cause mis-shaped sections; count stitches after each round especially after inc/dec rows to ensure you match the pattern counts. ✗ Ignoring photos and special instructions for attaching the cotter pin can result in a non-posable head; follow the exact placement and use the shim and disk as shown to secure the pin properly.

Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern

Crochet your own adorable Parasaurolophus Ginny with this detailed intermediate amigurumi pattern. Youll learn shaping, jacquard color changes, and secure assembly techniques to create a poseable, charming dinosaur. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, materials list, tools, and photo-supported assembly tips so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect as a handmade gift or a special addition to your amigurumi collection.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Parasaurolophus Ginny Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A - Alpina Rene Twist, color 03 - 125 m / 50 g, Sport (12 wpi)
  • 02
    Yarn B - Gazzal Jeans, color 1117 - 170 m / 50 g, Sport (12 wpi)
  • 03
    Yarn C - Alize Cotton Gold Tweed, color 62 - 330 m / 100 g, Sport (12 wpi)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.75 mm (for crocheting dinosaur)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.5 mm (for crocheting cheeks and spots)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black, white and pink threads mouline (for facial embroidery and cheeks)
  • 05
    2 pins or 2 stitch markers
  • 06
    Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 07
    Synthepus (polyester stuffing) for filling
  • 08
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Needle (for sewing and embroidery)
  • 11
    Round-nosed pliers
  • 12
    Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm
  • 13
    Shim 3 x 20 mm
  • 14
    Disk, diameter 20 mm
  • 15
    Floral wire diameter 0.95 mm (for 3D glasses frame, approx 80 cm)
  • 16
    Blue and red plastic for lenses (translucent paper folders suggested)
  • 17
    Super Glue 'Moment' (for glasses assembly)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— CREST (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

26 loops, turning, 25sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (25l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, 25sc (25l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 23sc (24l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, 22sc, dec (23l)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, 23sc (23l)

Round 6 :

1 loop, turning, 22sc, inc (24l)

Round 7 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 23sc (25l)

Round 8-9 :

1 loop, turning, 25sc (25l)

Round 10 :

1 loop, turning, 25 sl st (25l)

Round 11 :

9 sc straight from the point Start (see photo 1) Fold the detail in half and crochet both sides together 25 sl st (see photos 2-6). Crochet [dec]x4, sl st In the remaining hole (see photos 7-8). Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Move the thread 7 stitches to the left (see photo 9).

— HEAD (Yarn B) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x6 (18l)

Round 4 :

[2sc, inc]x6 (24l)

Round 5 :

[3sc, inc]x6 (30l)

Round 6 :

[4sc, inc]x6 (36l)

Round 7 :

[5sc, inc]x6 (42l)

Round 8-13 :

42sc (42l)

Round 14 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 15 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 16 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Info :

Baste the crest to the head with extra black thread (see photos 10-13). Sew the crest to the head (see photos 14-18). Remove extra thread.

Insert eyes and embroider :

Insert safety eyes between the rounds 11 and 12, the distance between them is approximately 12 stitches, don't fix yet (see photo 19). Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye "loose stitch" of black thread floss (see photos 20, 21). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" in the middle of the eye (see photos 22, 23). In the same way, embroider one more "loose stitch" 1 mm higher than the previous one, in order to get an oval shape (see photos 24-27). Using yarn needle to do from below the eye "loose stitch" of white thread floss (see photos 28, 29). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" (see photo 30). Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it. Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth (see photos 31-36).

Round 17 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 18 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Round 19 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure (see photo 45).

CHEEKS, 2 pcs (Pink threads mouline) :

Crochet cheeks with a hook 1,5 mm. 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head with the wrong side outward (see photos 41, 42).

— NECK and BODY :

Neck Round 1 :

Yarn B 1: 2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)

Neck Round 2 :

[inc]x8 (16l)

Info :

Next, you need to crochet the body of yarn B and yarn C at once, alternately change the thread, but not cutting it to get a white breast. This technique is called jacquard. Color changing technique: when crocheting the last pink sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with a white thread (see photo 46). Then the pink thread is thrown forward, and the white working thread goes backwards (see photos 47-49). To change the color back: when crocheting the last white sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with the pink thread (see photo 50, 51). It is more convenient to crochet with the jacquard only the front of the body, and the back should only be crocheted from yarn A. At the end of the row, when crocheting the last pink sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with a white thread grabbing it in the place where it remained (see photos 52-54). A "loose stitch" is formed on the wrong side (see photo 55). You need to move it forward along with the pink thread, so when crocheting jacquard it will be inside and the wrong side will become as neat as the front one (see photos 56-60).

Round 3 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn C); [3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B) (20l)

Round 4 :

only through back loops 10sc (Yarn C); 10sc (Yarn B) (20l)

Round 5 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn C); [4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B) (24l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin in the middle of the neck (see photo 61). Put the disk on the cotter pin and wrap the ends in the "rings" with the help of round-nosed pliers (see photos 62-66).

Round 6 :

12sc (Yarn C); 6sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop (in which the last sc was crocheted before the chain), 6sc (Yarn B) (30l)

Round 7 :

12sc (Yarn C); 9sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 9sc (Yarn B) (36l)

Round 8 :

[5sc, inc]x2 (Yarn C); [5sc, inc]x4 (Yarn B) (42l)

Round 9 :

14sc (Yarn C); [6sc, inc]x2, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, [6sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B) (52l)

Round 10 :

14sc (Yarn C); [7sc, inc]x2, 6sc, [7sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B) (56l)

Round 11 :

14sc (Yarn C); 21sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 21sc (Yarn B) (62l)

Round 12 :

14sc (Yarn C); 24sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 24sc (Yarn B) (68l) Don't cut the thread. Take another end of the yarn ball and crochet the tail.

— TAIL (Yarn B) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x2, dec (5l)

Round 3 :

sc, [inc]x2, dec (6l)

Round 4 :

sc, [inc]x2, sc, dec (7l)

Round 5 :

sc, [inc]x3, sc, dec (9l)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, sc, inc, 2sc, dec (10l)

Round 7 :

10sc (10l)

Round 8 :

3sc, [inc]x3, 2sc, dec (12l)

Round 9 :

12sc (12l)

Round 10 :

3sc, [inc]x5, 2sc, dec (16l)

Round 11 :

16sc (16l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Stuff the tail with synthepus. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connects to the back - move the pin to the 3rd loop from the beginning of the round count clockwise (see photo 76). Connect the body with the tail in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 77-81). Continue crocheting the body from the place where you left off.

Round 13 (incomplete round) :

14sc (Yarn C); crochet 24sc along the body, crochet 6sc of the body together with 6sc of the tail, then crochet 24sc along the body (Yarn B) (see photo 82)

Round 14 :

15sc (Yarn C); crochet 23sc on the body, crochet 10sc on the tail, crochet 24sc on the body (72l) (Yarn B) (see photos 83, 84)

Round 15 :

15sc (Yarn C); 17sc, [dec]x3, 10sc, [dec]x3, 18sc (Yarn B) (66l)

Round 16 :

16sc (Yarn C); 13sc, [dec]x3, 10sc, [dec]x3, 15sc (Yarn B) (60l)

Round 17 :

16sc (Yarn C); 10sc, [dec]x3, 10sc, [dec]x3, 12sc (Yarn B) (54l)

Info :

Next cut the yarn B and continue crocheting with yarn C only (see photo 86)!

Round 18 :

28sc, [dec]x6, 14sc (48l)

Round 19 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 20 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 21 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 22 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 23 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 24 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Round 25 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Tip: Cut out a circle of white felt a little larger than the resulting hole and insert it into the hole so synthepus does not cling to the hook during closing (see photo 87).

— LEGS, 2 pcs (Yarn B) :

Round 1 :

7 loops, turning, 6sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 6sc (from the back of the chain) (12l)

Round 2 :

[2sc, inc]x4 (16l)

Round 3-6 :

16sc (16l)

Round 7 :

[6sc, dec]x2 (14l)

Round 8 :

[5sc, dec]x2 (12l)

Round 9-10 :

12sc (12l)

Round 11 :

[dec]x2, 4sc, [dec]x2 (8l)

Round 12 :

dec, 4sc, dec (6l)

Round 13 :

6sc only through back loops (6l)

Info :

Completely fill the leg, don't stuff further.

Round 14 :

[inc]x2, 4sc (8l)

Round 15 :

sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (10l)

Round 16-17 :

10sc (10l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn C (leave the long end of Yarn B). Remove the pin that marks the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 10 loops in half and in the next round crochet both halves together.

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, 5 sl st (5l)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, [[sl st, dc, sl st] - in one loop, sl st]x2, {sl st, dc, sl st} - in one loop (see photo 94)

Info :

"Squeeze" the foot to the leg with a few stitches using the left thread of Yarn B (see photos 95, 96).

— HANDS, 2 pcs (Yarn B) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 3 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Round 4-6 :

10sc (10l)

Round 7-8 :

[inc]x3, sc, [dec]x3 (10l)

Round 9 :

10sc (10l)

Round 10-11 :

[dec]x3, sc, [inc]x3 (10l)

Info :

Stuff the hand with synthepus.

Round 12 :

[dec]x2, sc, [dec]x2, sc (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure (see photo 97).

NAILS, 3 pcs on each hand (Yarn C) :

Embroider 3 nails on each hand with French knot (see photos 98, 99).

— SPOTS (Yarn A) :

SMALL, 8 pcs :

1: 3 loops, turning, 2sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 2sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (4l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

MIDDLE, 6 pcs :

1: 4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 3sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (6l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

BIG, 4 pcs :

1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (8l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew on the spots on the hands, legs, back and tail (see photos 100-102).

— ASSEMBLAGE :

Step 1 :

Sew your crocheted hands and legs and to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). Attach the hands and legs using needles for cutting (hands between 9 and 10 rounds of body, distance between hands approx 18 stitches, legs between 15 and 16 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 28 stitches - view from above, see photos 103-105). Check that the dinosaur stands steadily. Detach the hands and legs without removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place (see photos 106, 107).

Step 2 :

Insert the needle through the back into the hand attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside) (see photos 108, 109).

Step 3 :

Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the hand (the needle for cutting must be in the middle) (see photo 110).

Step 4 :

Insert the needle into the body at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second hand (see photo 111). Pass the needle through the second hand in the same way (see photo 112). Sew the body and the hands two more times in the same way for strength (see photo 113).

Step 5 :

Insert the needle at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the opposite leg (see photo 114). Thread the needle through the leg (see photo 115). Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg (see photo 116). Pass the needle through the second leg (see photo 117). Sew the body and the legs two more times in the same way for strength (see photo 118).

Step 6 :

Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it the back in the place, where it was introduced at the very beginning (see photo 119). Tie a few knots and hide the thread (see photo 120). Congratulations, you did a great job and created a small miracle! Embrace your parasaurolophus (see photos 121-123)!

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the hands and legs using needles for cutting: position hands between rounds 9 and 10 of the body (distance between hands approx 18 stitches) and legs between rounds 15 and 16 (distance between legs approx 28 stitches), check balance and adjust before final sewing.
  • Insert the cotter pin and disk into the neck: put the cotter pin in the middle of the neck, place the disk on the cotter pin, wrap the ends into the disk rings using round-nosed pliers, then insert into the head shim hole and secure.
  • Sew hands to body: insert needle through the back into the hand attachment point leaving a loose end outside, pass needle through two loops on the inner surface of the hand and through the body, repeat sewing two more times for strength.
  • Sew legs to body: insert needle at the hand attachment point and pull out at the point of attachment of the opposite leg, thread through leg and body as shown, repeat two more times and hide thread with knots.
  • Sew spots to the body and limbs using long thread ends: position spots symmetrically on back, tail, hands and legs, use photos 100-102 as reference for placement and secure with small, tight stitches.
  • Insert safety eyes and embroider details: fit safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12 then embroider black and white thread floss around and under the eye following the photo sequence to achieve the oval shape and sew nostrils and mouth with black floss.

Important Notes

  • 💡Mark the first single crochet of each round with a pin or marker for convenience and to keep your rounds aligned, especially during the jacquard color changes.
  • 💡Use a cotter pin and disk as instructed to make the head posable; if you prefer not to use hardware, sew the head directly to the body instead.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and evenly so the stuffing does not show through the stitches; if stuffing is visible, try using a smaller hook for tighter gauge.
  • 💡When using a different yarn weight than suggested, choose an appropriate hook size to match the stated gauge and finish size.

This sweet Parasaurolophus Ginny makes a charming handmade gift and a lovely shelf companion. The pattern covers shaping, jacquard color changes, and secure assembly so your toy will be durable and poseable. Celebrate your finished creation and enjoy adding tiny details like spots, a crest, and even 3D glasses to personalize Ginny. 🧶🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished toy measures approximately 11 cm (4.3 inches) high when using the recommended yarns and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect the final size and may require a different hook; choose your hook to achieve a tight amigurumi fabric and adjust eye size accordingly.

Do I need special skills to make the jacquard breast?

Basic experience with changing colors and carrying yarn helps; the pattern explains the jacquard technique step-by-step and includes photos to make the color changes manageable for intermediate crocheters.

Is the head posable?

Yes, the pattern uses a cotter pin, shim, and disk to allow the head to turn; instructions and photos show how to assemble these parts securely.

How should I fasten safety eyes while embroidering?

Insert safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, then embroider the black and white thread floss around and under the eye before fastening the eye to the embroidered line to ensure a neat finish.